INCI name:Methyl Undecenoyl Leucinate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin
Alpha-MSH, melanocyte stimulating hormone, is best known as major factor in the regulation of pigmentation through its unique mechanism. Alpha-MSH involves in the control of tyrosinase activity, melanin synthesis and melanosome transfer. DermaPep™ UL interacts with MC1R, a receptor for alpha-MSH, competes against its natural ligand, alpha-MSH and thereby prevents any further activation of melanogenic genes such as tyrosinase, TRP1, TRP2 (DCT), MITF and POMC and finally blocks melanin synthesis.
and in vivo
study results show that DermaPep™ UL is far more effective than other known whitening ingredients such as kojic acid, arbutin and hydroquinone.
Mechanism of Whitening Action
-Affinity for α-MSH receptor
-Inhibition of cAMP
-Inhibition of tyrosinase
-Inhibition of melanogenesis
In vitro Efficacy
The whitening efficacy of DermaPep™ UL has been demonstrated in vitro
by measuring melanin contents and tyrosinase activity on B16F10 mouse melanoma and human primary melanocytes.
Inhibition of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity
DermaPep™ UL, acting as a MC1R-specific antagonist, reduced tyrosinase, TRP1, TRP2, MITF and POMC gene expression (supplementary data were not shown) and significantly decreased melanogenesis (melanin formation) and tyrosinase activity.
In vivo Efficacy
The clinical test was performed on 30 Asian volunteers (Bangkok), aged 18 to 52 (Mean age 32). 3% formula containing DermaPep™ UL has been applied twice a day during 56 days, on face area. Evaluation was performed by chromametry (chromameter CR-300®, Minolta, Japan).
Lightening effect of skin tone
DermaPep™ UL showed excellent lightening effect on healthy volunteers compared to the untreated area.
Comparison to other whitening ingredients
DermaPep™ UL resulted in more pronounced skin lightening effect after 8 weeks than other skin-whitening agents.
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